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Research Letters |

Sebum Transforming Growth Factor β1 Induced by Hair Products

Renée A. Beach, MD; Katalin A. Wilkinson, PhD; Freedom Gumedze, PhD; Nonhlanhla P. Khumalo, FCDerm, PhD
Arch Dermatol. 2012;148(6):764-766. doi:10.1001/archdermatol.2011.3533.
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Chemical hair processing is used by more than 60% of women with Afro-textured hair and is a suspected contributor to scarring alopecia. We recently reported changes in 6 proinflammatory cytokines on scalp sebum of 36 women.1 Baseline scalp interleukin (IL)-1α in all participants including those with natural hair was higher than expected (ie, 18 times IL-1ra levels), which may suggest a predisposition to scalp inflammation. However, there was no difference in levels of IL-1α when sebum from shampooed natural hair was compared with that treated with ammonium thioglycolate (permanent wave), sodium hydroxide (“lye”) and guanidine hydroxide (“no-lye”) relaxers. Changes in IL-1ra were significant on the vertex but not on the crown, which may suggest site-specific scalp predisposition to inflammation.

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